Poinsettias

This is the time of year many people have poinsettias. What to do with them after the holidays?

Care 

• Poinsettia plants prefer indirect light, six hours daily is ideal.

• Poinsettias require daytime temperatures of 60 to 70°F and night time temperatures around 55°F for best growth; high temperatures will shorten the life of the plant.

• Standing water can be harmful for the plant. Remove any wrappings from around the pot or punch holes in the foil so water can drain into a saucer; discard excess water.  
• In some climate zones poinsettias can be planted outdoors.

Yet, some are concerned because they think the plants are poisonous. Are poinsettias poisonous? No, this myth has been around since the early 1900’s. The American Society of Florists has been trying to dispel the myth for a long time. They say that no other commercial plant has been tested for toxicity more than the poinsettia.

According to the American Medical Association’s Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, ingestion of the poinsettia plant has been found to produce no ill effects except an occasional case of vomiting. According to the POISINDEX information source, a child who weighs 50 lbs. would have to consume over 500 leaves before he reaches a potentially toxic level. Since the taste of poinsettia leaves is reportedly unpleasant, it is unlikely that a child or animal who attempts to eat or chew the leaves, will continue to do so after the first taste. Some people, however, can develop a skin and eye irritation from contact with the milky sap of the plant.

Citrus - Ripe or Not

 In tropical regions of the world, some gardeners patiently wait for their citrus fruit, such as tangerines, to turn orange before picking them.  When using color as an indicator for ripeness, the fruit can easily pass its prime, which is characterized by dry fruit segments. 

Coloration can be an indicator for ripeness in temperate and subtropical climates like California. But in the tropics, color is not a good guide for harvesting. Large temperature differences, such as 85 F. in the day and 45 F. at night, is the condition which produces the orange coloration.  This is also true in other fruit such as apples. 
In contract, temperatures in the tropics do not significantly vary; thus fruit tends to stay at least partially green.

 

If you know the variety of the fruit, you can find out the harvest period. If you don’t know the variety, then when the fruit first begins to show color, pick one and taste it. If it’s not ripe, or not sweet enough, wait a week or two and pick another. Fruit will sweeten when left on the tree. Eventually you’ll discover the right time and know the approximate picking schedule for next year. 

Once citrus fruit is picked, it will not continue to ripen and become sweeter unlike other fruit such as the banana.

When Is a Yam a Sweet Potato?

While enjoying the traditional Thanksgiving dinner, some people may ask, "What is the difference between yams and sweet potatoes?"  Are they the same by a different name? 

Many years ago orange colored sweet potatoes were introduced to the Southern United States. In an effort to distinguish these from the traditional white-fleshed potato, producers called them yams, which is the Anglicize African word, nyami.  Today, most of the starchy tubers consumed in the US and labeled as yams are in reality sweet potatoes. Yams and sweet potatoes however, are not the same; in fact, they are quite different from each other. 

As far as botanical order is concerned, they are at opposite ends. The sweet potato is a dicot, set in the morning glory family. Yams, on the other hand, are a monocot, closely related to grasses. The sweet potato, whose sweet and moist flesh varies in color from white to yellow and orange, is native to South America; the skin is typically smooth. In contrast, yams are dry and starchy and rather bland. While yellow or purple in color, the skin is rough and a bit shaggy. Yams are native to North Africa and Asia. They range in size from that of a small potato up to 150 lbs. Yams are a primary agricultural crop in West Africa, where 95 percent of the world's yam crop is grown. 

Garnet, Jewel, and Beauregard are orange fleshed sweet potatoes that  masquerade as yams in the local supermarkets.

Composting Produces Good Organic Matter

By following some simple rules you can speed up the processing time and produce good compost in one to two months. Some ‘experts’ can even turn a pile of garden waste into nice compost in as little as 14 days.  Here are the essentials:

A. Proper moisture and air (oxygen) content - Compost works best if the moisture content of the materials is about 50%. That’s not easy to measure, but it has been estimated to be about the moisture content of a wrung-out sponge.  If the material is too dry, decomposition will stop; if too wet, oxygen becomes limited, decomposition slows, and foul odors will be produced.

B. Proper carbon/nitrogen ration - For effective composting, the raw materials must have a proper carbon/nitrogen ratio – set at about 30:1.  Since this cannot be easily measured, experience has shown that mixing equal volumes of green and brown plant material will give this ratio. The 'greens' are fresh, moist materials like grass clippings, weeds, manures and kitchen scraps. The 'browns' are dry materials such as twigs, wood chips, straw, saw dust and paper.  If a pile of twigs are thrown to the side, they will eventually decompose. But when leaves (greens) are combined with the twigs (browns) in the proper ratios, the organic matter will decompose more quickly.    

Mixing the greens with the browns is not only good for obtaining the proper ratio, but also helps to maintain a good oxygen level.  Grass clippings alone (shredded paper too) tend to mat and exclude oxygen.  Adding twigs helps to open the pile allowing a better movement of air.   

C. Proper size of material - Soft, succulent plant tissue does not need to be chopped into small pieces because it will decompose rapidly.  However, the harder to decompose woody materials will compost best if pieces are ½ to 1 ½ inches in size: the smaller the pieces the quicker the decomposition.

D. Proper pile size - The size of the compost pile is important.  The minimal size is 3 cubic feet (3x3x3). Maximum size would be around 5x5 and as long as you want it.

E. Proper turning - Turning the pile is not required, but will certainly speed up the process; turn any time from every day to every10 days. Turning helps ensure proper air circulation along with good moisture and heat distribution. 

Finally, here’s how to know when the composting process is finished: when the majority of the pile has become dark, loose, crumbly and sweet smelling.  Also, the original ingredients will not be recognizable with the exception of a few pieces of tough woody material. Composting is a good way to reuse our natural resources, recycle nutrients and add good organic matter back into the soil. 

Bananas – A Fruit for All Reasons

There truly seems to be ample evidence that bananas are more than just a good source of potassium. Nutrients such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin B6 and niacin, as well as the minerals phosphorous, calcium, magnesium and manganese are all present in bananas. In addition, no fruit is higher in energy value except the avocado. This is because the banana has three natural sugars -sucrose, fructose and glucose which give a substantial boost of energy. Other benefits of bananas are as follows:         Help fight depression. They contain tryptophan, which converts into serotonin, a chemical known to make you relax and improve your mood. For this reason, bananas can also help sufferers of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD).         High in iron. Bananas can stimulate the production of hemoglobin in  the blood and so helps in cases of anemia.         Reduces the risk of high blood pressure and stroke. Bananas are extremely high in potassium yet low in salt. The US Food and Drug Administration allows the banana industry to make official claims for the fruit's ability to reduce the risk of blood pressure and stroke.  According to research in “The New England Journal of Medicine”, eating bananas as part of a regular diet can cut the risk of death by strokes by as much as 40%.         Research has shown that the fruit can assist learning by making pupils more alert.         Bananas have a natural antacid effect in the body so if you suffer from heartburn, eat a banana for soothing relief.         Some people even rub mosquito bites with the inside of a banana skin to reduce swelling and irritation.         Bananas can also help people who try to give up smoking. It seems the B vitamins, along with potassium and magnesium found in bananas help the body recover from the effects of nicotine withdrawal.

Hibiscus Mite

Bumpy, wart- like growths on hibiscus leaves. 

This unsightly growth is caused by the feeding of a tiny mite, invisible to the naked eye, called the hibiscus erineum mite.  It has been in the Hawaiian Islands since 1989 and is carried from place to place by wind, birds and insects.

The mite is difficult to eradicate, and even when it is gone, it will likely return.  Biological control is the best long-term solution.  Soon after the mite becomes established, a predatory mite will most likely move in and begin feeding of the erineum mite. 

Since the predatory mite will only reduce the pest population and not eliminate it, there will continue to be some damage. If not satisfied with biological control, using a chemical spray would be the next step:  1) prune to eliminate the worst damage, 2) spray with a registered miticide; wettable sulfur.  3) Apply 2-3 times, at weekly intervals, paying special attention to spraying the undersides of the leaves.  In addition to killing the mites, the spray will protect the new growth from further infestation so gradually the shrub will begin to recover. 

Unfortunately, a miticide application will also kill the predatory mites, so it is either biological control or chemical.  If you see tiny, fast moving mites on the leaves, these are the predatory mites. You may want to give them a chance before pesticide applications.

Research conducted at CTAHR’s Kahului Experimental Station (Maui) indicates that some hibiscus varieties are more susceptible to this mite than others.   The more susceptible varieties are:  Chinese Red, Herman Shierman, Orange Hibiscus, Nii Yellow and Kardinal.  Those varieties that show a lesser susceptibility to the mite are: Itsy Bitsy Peach, Monch, Zahm, Apple blossom, Apricot, Empire and Pink hibiscus.  

Tropical Favorites

Some favorite tropical fruits, spices and flowers all belong to the same plant order known as the Zingiberales. They include banana, ginger, cardamom, turmeric and the beautiful heliconia flowers.

Banana, sometimes referred to as a tree or palm, is actually an herbaceous plant since the trunk or stems do not contain lignin. Lignin is the substance that makes wood, woody.  

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia and is unknown in the wild but has been cultivated since ancient times. Ginger was introduced into Europe from China and introduced into Mexico and the Caribbean by the Spaniards. Today it is widely used in local medicines in India and the Far East. China and India are the largest producers of ginger.   

Cardamom is native to India. The dried fruits are used in medicine and as a spice.  Cardamom seeds, which have a pleasant aroma, are used in curries and breads.   

Turmeric, or olena as it is called in the Hawaiian language, comes from the root of Curcuma domestica; it is an important ingredient in curry powders.  Turmeric has been gaining recognition as an anti-inflammatory herbal remedy. Preliminary findings suggest that a chemical found in turmeric called curcumin may have carcinogenic retarding properties but these findings have not been confirmed. With its bright yellow color, turmeric is also used as a fabric dye. This species is unknown in the wild; it is sterile and does not produce fruit. Turmeric is also known as Indian saffron. 

Lastly, in the plant order Zingiberales there are over 100 different species of heliconia flowers.  They produce some of the most beautiful and commercially important flowers for both potted plants and bouquets. Heliconias require high temperatures, humidity and light intensity.  In the wild they grow mainly in forest clearings. The Bird of Paradise, which is the national flower of South Africa, is also in this group. 

Edible Ornamental Plants

In frontier times, people foraged the  nearby hills and fields for edible plants. Since the early 1900’s, however, Americans began the great migration to the cities and  eventually lost their foraging ability. Perhaps the time has now come to learn which ornamental plants and common weeds can be a  good source of nutritious food.

Here is a short list of some well-known edibles. Many university websites have a more comprehensive list of ornamental edibles.

A. Weeds - If you can’t beat them, eat them!

 1. Dandelions, Taraxacum officinale -Fresh dandelion leaves can be eaten raw, in salads, added to a stir fry, or boiled and steamed like spinach. They have a bitter taste, but boiling will help take that out. Dandelions also make a great addition to soups and stew. They are high in carotenes, iron, calcium and vitamins A and C. As a detoxifying agent, dandelions aid with liver, urinary and gall bladder disorders, diabetes and high blood pressure. Dandelion root tea is sold in local health food stores. 

2. Lamb’s quarters (Chenopodium album) is also called wild spinach with similar nutritional value to spinach. 

3. Burdock (Arctium Lappa) is a weed rich in potassium, iron and calcium. 

4. Common mallow (Malva neglecta) the leaves, stems, and immature seeds are eaten raw or cooked. Mallow is reported to be rich in calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron, selenium, and vitamins A and C.

 5. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is a succulent; the leaves, stems and flowers can be eaten either fresh or cooked. The leaves contain more omega-3 fatty acids than any other leafy vegetable plant.

Other edible weeds include chickweed, white and red clovers and plantain.

B. Edible Flowers

1. Marigolds are one of the most commonly grown ornamental annuals. When dried and crumbled, the petals of marigolds can substitute for the most expensive spice in the world: saffron. 

2. Roses, both the petals and the rosehips (fruit), are edible. Rose water is often used in scones, cakes, sherbets, salads and icings.  

 3. Sunflowers – in addition to the commonly eaten seeds, the petals can be added to soups and stir-fry dishes. The sunflower buds can be steamed and eaten like an artichoke.

4. Daylilies (Hemerocallis sp.) - Some species (especially H. fulva) are cultivated in Asia for their edible flowers. The petals can be eaten raw or more commonly dried and used as a flavoring in soups. The young shoots should be cooked and have a pleasant sweet flavor. Even the roots are edible.

Nasturtium, violas, borage and calendula flowers are also edible and frequently used in salads.  Bon Appetit! 

Caution: Before collecting, research the plant to verify it is edible, and more importantly, make sure it is properly identified. Eating the wrong plant can be disastrous.

Mulch with Wood Chips

 Mulch placed around plants is a good way to conserve soil moisture. Plants that have a layer of mulch over their roots will manage better in a drought situation. Wood chips, when available, make an excellent mulch for other reasons also. 

• A wood mulch layer can help prevent diseases by keeping fruit like strawberries and tomatoes, from touching the fungal infested ground. The same mulch layer will create a barrier, preventing rot causing fungal spores from splashing up onto low growing citrus fruit. Wood mulches also produce chemical compounds that inhibit the growth of disease causing fungi. Furthermore, a layer of mulch will help to control erosion and reduce weeds. Apply at least 4 inches for good weed control.

When incorporating large quantities of non-composted wood products like sawdust and wood chips into the soil, it’s a good idea to add a little high nitrogen fertilizer to prevent a nitrogen deficiency.  This can happen because bacteria require nitrogen as they break down the wood and will take it from the soil. It is only temporary though, because as the bacteria die, they will release the nitrogen. This is especially important for newly planted annuals like flowers and vegetables. Established trees and shrubs, however, have a large enough root system to obtain nitrogen from deeper depths.

Lawn - the Control of Weeds

Broadleaf weeds appear in the grass.

Controlling weeds in the lawn should begin long before chemical herbicide applications are considered. Cultural measures ought to be employed from the beginning. These include: 

• Proper irrigation -  weeds often invade lawns that are either over-watered or under-watered. Perhaps the worst possible irrigation schedule, yet common, is daily watering for 5–10 minutes. Light, frequent irrigation creates a shallow-rooted lawn which is more susceptible to weed invasion, as well as being less tolerant to drought.  In dry areas, where irrigation is employed, water should penetrate to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. The best practice is to allow the soil to partially dry out between irrigation. The top 1 to 2 inches  should be fairly dry before watering again. For more information on irrigating lawns, see UH CTAHR publication, “Watering Lawns”, at http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/site/info.aspx

• Proper fertilization – apply suitable amounts of fertilizer on a regular basis; nitrogen is the key nutrient for turf.

• Proper mowing heights – each turfgrass species has an appropriate mowing height. Mowing some grasses too short can weaken the lawn and predispose it to weed invasion.  A typical guide is to remove no more than one-third of the leaf blade at each mowing. If too much is removed, it will take more time for the grass to recover, giving weeds a chance to invade.

• Thatch is a layer of organic matter - stems, stolons, roots - that develops between the turfgrass blades and the soil surface. Regular thatch removal will help keep turfgrass healthy and competitive with weeds.  For Hawaii residents, see the UH CTAHR publication “Removing Thatch from your Lawn” for more information on this procedure.

• Any activities that lead to soil compaction will contribute significantly to turfgrass stress. This in turn, will make it easier for weeds to invade. These activities may include heavy foot traffic as well as vehicles traveling over the area.

 100% weed control in the lawn is impractical. Weeds will occur, but the problems can be minimized with a well-managed, vigorously growing lawn. By combining cultural methods with herbicide applications when needed, weeds will  be minimized.

For chemical control, a grassy weed in a lawn is difficult since most chemicals cannot distinguish between good and bad grass species. Fortunately, certain herbicides can distinguish between grassy plants and broadleaves. It is the chemical composition of the herbicide and the morphology of the plant that will cause certain herbicides to affect broadleaf plants but not affect grasses. Therefore, controlling broadleaf weeds in a grassy environment is relatively easy. Purchase an herbicide with the active ingredient 2,4-D, MCPP (mecoprop), or dicamba (Banvel). These products are often sold in combination, giving better management and a wider spectrum of the broadleaf weeds controlled.

For light weed infestations, spot treating is more appropriate than treating the entire lawn. Apply just enough of the solution to wet the leaf, do not apply to the point that the herbicide is dripping off the leaf. To insure maximum absorption, stop mowing 2 or 3 days before treatment and allow 3 or 4 days before mowing again. This allows sufficient time for the weeds to absorb the herbicide and transport it to their roots.

Caution: these materials are volitle, espectially 2,4-D. The drift can damage other valued broadleaf plants; tomatoes and hibiscus are particularly sensitive.