The cause
of cracking in mangoes is the same whether it’s mangoes, oranges or tomatoes. The
majority of cracks are caused by irregular periods of dry and wet
weather. Abundant rain alternating
with dry spells will produce stages of slow growth followed by rapid growth,
resulting in cracked fruit.
In
addition, a fungus or bacteria may invade these cracks and cause the fruit to
rot. The weather is beyond our control,
but if irrigation is involved, an even supply of moisture throughout the
growing season will help eliminate cracking in fruit.
Also, anthracnose fungal disease, common on mangoes, can cause deep cracking in certain varieties which are especially
susceptible to this disease. The florigon
mango variety is rated ‘moderately resistant to anthracnose.’
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Friday, August 31, 2012
Cracked Mangoes
Labels:
fruits/nuts
Friday, August 24, 2012
Invader in the Lawn
Labels:
weed control
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
The Citrus Tree Switch : Sweet to Sour
Have you ever purchased an orange tree, harvested sweet oranges for many years, only to have a crop of sour fruit the next?
All commercially sold citrus trees are
budded. A budded tree is like a grafted tree, except a single bud is used
instead of a graft which is a few inches of stem containing several
buds. When you look at the trunk of a
citrus tree, you should be able to observe a slight to obvious bulge. This is
where the original budding took place; it is called the bud-union. Everything
above that bulge or bud-union grew from that bud and is the variety of tree
you purchased; everything below is of the original rootstock seedling.
Sometimes shoots originating from below the bud-union will grow
up into the tree. These are typically covered with large thorns. If the shoots not
pruned out, they will continue to grow, branch and eventually form a good
part of the tree. Rootstock branches are usually more vigorous and will
eventually blossom and produce fruit. This fruit is different from the variety you originally purchased, and
most often is quite sour. These branches must be cut out so the original
budded variety can repopulate the tree and produce sweet fruit.
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Labels:
citrus
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
What is Chinese Spinach?
Chinese
spinach is not what we consider true spinach but is actually known as an
amaranth; that is, plants that come from the genus amaranthus. Although several species in this
group are considered weeds, others are used as high-protein
grains, leafy vegetables or valued as ornamentals. It is an ancient crop
originating in the Americas, with inflorescences and foliage ranging from purple
and red to gold.
The amaranth that is known as Chinese
spinach is grown for its tender leaves. Depending on the variety, this plant
can vary in foliage color, leaf shape, plant height and flavor. The plants
grow well in hot weather, preferring a sunny location with plenty of
moisture. Don’t worry about planting
too densely; once the seedlings are up and growing, the young plants can be
thinned to six inches apart. The plants that have been thinned are edible!
When established, the growing tips can be pinch to force the plant to branch
and make more new, tender growth. The
tender young leaves and stems are cooked like spinach or used for stir-fry
and soup. They are quite high in protein. Chinese Spinach is also known as
Calaloo, Hon-toi-moi, Tampala, or hin choy.
Chinese spinach seeds can be
ordered from various seed companies. When buying the seed from a catalog, look
for entries under Amaranthus and make sure "edible for greens"
is stated. As mentioned above, some
varieties of amaranthus are grown for grain while others for the leafy
greens.
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Labels:
vegetables
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Ivory Nut Palm
Part of the immature seed of the
ivory nut palm is pulpy and sweet and is used as food for both people and
animals. The mature, dry seeds however, become so hard that it requires a
hacksaw to cut one in half. They are known as vegetable ivory and are a
sustainable, alternative to animal ivory.
Many beautiful carvings have been produced from these seeds.
During Victorian times, thimbles,
dice and jewelry were manufactured from this substance. Before plastic
buttons became popular, it was a key material in the button industry. During
the 1920′s, 20% of all buttons made in the United States were made out of the
seed of the ivory nut palm. If you have never seen the beautiful carvings
made from these seeds, check out a web site like http://waynesword.palomar.edu/pljan99.htm
Germinating seeds of the ivory nut
palm is difficult. Therefore, plant as many as possible since not all will
germinate. Ones that do germinate, may
take several months or even up to a year. If possible, allow the fruit to fall, do not
pick it from the tree.
One method of germination is to
plant the seed, anywhere from half buried to just under the soil, in a
sterile, well-drained planting media. Keep it moist but saturate log the
soil. Some horticulturalists insist that removing the seed coat from around
the seed is important while others have been successful without removing it.
Since the seeds take a long time to sprout,
there is always the danger of insects and fungi destroying the seed. Yet as
long as the seed has not turned to mush, there is still hope for germination. The seed will send down roots before it
sends up a sprout. Once germinated,
the problems are not over. A
number of people have been successful in germinating the seed only to have it
die from an unknown cause shortly thereafter.
The second approach to germinating
the seed is to mimic nature. As the
seed lies on the ground, there are hundreds of different types of fungi,
bacteria and other microorganisms growing on and around that seed. The exact
role of these organisms is uncertain, but it is possible that the gases and
other chemicals that they produce may trigger and aid in the germination of
the seed. That is why some recommend placing the seed in a plastic bag with
organic matter (OM) and allow the OM to decompose. Leave the seed in the bag
for a couple of weeks to a month. Then plant it in a pot with a well draining
soil mix.
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Labels:
fruits/nuts,
miscellaneous
Friday, August 3, 2012
Don’t Pile Mulch Against Tree Trunks
Applying organic mulch to the
garden provides many benefits: improves the soil structure, adds micro and
macro nutrients to the soil, conserves water during a drought, and acts as a
food source for many beneficial microorganisms living in the soil.
When applying mulch around
trees, however, an air space must be kept between the mulch and tree trunk so the bark
can dry. A constantly wet trunk will provide a suitable environment for
disease. This, of course, does not apply to all trees. For instance, the
magnolias of the Southern States grow along streams and swamps. But other trees, like citrus and avocado,
are susceptible to crown rot.
If the
fungal organism is present and the bark remains wet for a prolonged period of
time, infection will occur. Untreated,
the tree will die. Don’t pile mulch against the tree, and don’t position
sprinklers so the water hits the trunk. Keeping the tree trunks dry as much as possible is important.
In general mulch enhances the health of trees but precautions need to be observed. |
Labels:
fertilizer,
miscellaneous,
weed control
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